The nascent sport of bouldering, or competition climbing, looking for an Olympic berth may suffer a doping scandal setback. Maybe not a full-fledged BALCO or Operation Puerto imbroglio, but controversy, thank you ma'am. Watch out if your doping or 'roiding then climbing.
To Grough (Yes, Grough) Covering the Outdoor World.
Apparently a bouldering star tipped off competitors of surprise doping tests. The mystery plays out this way:
The high-adrenaline world of competition climbing found itself at the centre of anti-doping controversy today.
In a foretaste of future events, with the possibility of the sport
featuring in the 2020 Olympics, an Irish bouldering enthusiast was
criticised for tipping off would-be competitors they may be dope-tested
in two upcoming events. The climbers’ representative body, the
Mountaineering Council of Ireland, was also dragged into the row.
Stephen McMullan, of the Irish Bouldering League, posted an entry on the forms of climbers’ website Climing.ie
which read: “I’ve been informed today that it will be highly likely
that there will be representatives from the Irish Sports Council
conducting anti-doping tests at the Midleton [sic] and DCU rounds of
the IBL.
“All competitors will be required to sign the MCI anti-doping declaration prior to being allowed to compete.
“In all likelihood there will be urine testing, more probable for
folks getting placed 1, 2, 3 but also there is the possibility of
random testing.”
Mr McMullan continued: “Personally I’m still reeling at this news. I suppose we just hoped this day would never come.
“Yes, it’s completely inappropriate due to the nature of the event.
However, we are insured and funded by the MCI who are in turned funded
by the sports councils of NI and Rep[ublic of] Ireland and them’s the
rules for competitive events.
“We don’t have a choice here. Well we do, but compliance is the least of all the evils.”
So now the powerful :-) Mountaineering Council of Ireland will investigate:
Now, according to John Mooney in the Sunday Times, the Irish Sports
Council has asked the MCI to investigate the posting. The ISC, along
with Sport Northern Ireland, provides funding for the league.
The competitions will take place at Middleton, County Cork on 24 January and Dublin City University on 28 February.
Bouldering, which takes place both inside and outdoors, sets
climbers ‘problems’ to climb, with points scored for completing these
mini-routes and a strict set of rules governing how the competitions
are run.
All affiliated members of the International Federation of Sport
Climbing are expected to adhere to its rules, which include
anti-doping. These state that all competitions organised under the
federation’s authority should comply with the anti-doping code, which
bans many drugs which are present in over-the-counter medications.
Mr McMullan says that people taking insulin and anyone who has used
corticosteroids recently would fall foul of the dope testing and would
need a medical note from their doctor to say there was a clinical need
for their use.
However, he also cautions that ‘recreational’ drugs, some of which
stay in the bloodstream for some time, would show up in the tests.
Stuart Garland, the MCI’s chief executive, told the Sunday Times’
Mooney: “We asked the IBL to make sure they had the relevant paperwork,
which would enable the sports council staff to carry out anti-doping
tests at the competitions.
“It would appear this information may have led people to reach
certain conclusions.” He added that he did not endorse Mr McMullan’s
comments.
An issue would be the exportation of the game to the Olympics. The Olympics require the rigor of WADA compliance and testing. Thus the concern about doping, and Therapeutic Use Exemptions (TUEs) for prescribed medications.
Climbing and mountaineering are recognised by the International
Olympic Committee but do not yet form part of the games, though there
is a strong likelihood that some form of sport climbing will feature in
the 2020 Olympic Games.
The International Federation of Sport Climbing accepted the new anti-doping code in September last year.
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